Pine Valley Mountains

Description

Proposed Expansion, Pine Valley Mountains Wilderness

At the crossroads of three major habitat and geologic regions, southwestern Utah's Pine Valley Mountains are an area deserving of protection for future generations of wildlife, scientists, and recreationists. Truly a keystone, the area lies at the intersection of the Mojave Desert, Basin and Range, and the Colorado Plateau provinces meet. The area features an integration of plant species not seen in any singular region. Rising above the communities of Enterprise and St. George, Utah, the Pine Valley Mountains are a striking compliment to the area's dramatic red rock scenery. Though the Pine Valley Mountain region contains one of southern Utah's few designated wilderness areas, the majority of the roadless lands in the vicinity remain unprotected.

The area features sage steppe and mountain brush, pinon-juniper woodland, and isolated stands of coniferous forest on the wetter north-facing aspects. Scattered patches of Ponderosa pine are found in the area.

The Pine Valley Ranger District of the Dixie National Forest contains the following proposed roadless areas: Atchinson Mountain, Bull Valley - Cave Canyon, Cedar Bench, Cottonwood Canyon, Cove Mountain, Harmony Mountains, Kane Mountain, Lost Peak, Mount Escalante, North Hills, Pine Park - Rock Canyon, Pine Valley Mountain Expansions, and Racer Canyon - Mogutsu, comprising a total of 359,000 acres.

The Pine Valley - Bull Valley Mountain area falls within three level III ecoregions -- the Central Basin and Range, Mojave Basin and Range, and The Wasatch and Uinta Mountains ecoregions. Highlighting the area's diversity, the ranger district as a whole contains six level IV ecoregions. Central Basin and Range Sagebrush Basins and Slopes, Woodland- and Shrub-Covered Low Mountains, Creosote Bush-Dominated Basins, Mojave Arid Footslopes, Mojave Mountain Woodland and Shrubland and Wasatch and Uinta High Plateaus, and Wasatch and Uinta Foothills subsections are all represented.

Due to the area's geologic significance, the diversity of landforms and habitat types, much of the area is well suited to wilderness. The presence of the Spanish Trail that bisects the area gives wilderness designation added relevance to protection of the vistas and peak views that were enjoyed by early emigrants. Large tracts of roadless BLM land lie adjacent to the Forest Service roadless areas. Cottonwood WSA is found on BLM lands on the far southeast side of the forest boundary. Many Utah Wilderness Coalition proposed wilderness units abut the Forest boundary, and their wilderness qualities have been confirmed by BLM. For these reasons, as well as the presence of federally listed Threatened, Endangered and Sensitive species, the intermingling of the Mojave, Great Basin and Colorado Plateau geographic types, as well as the unique volcanic and rugged scenery that contrasts surrounding redrock country, the UFN recommends wilderness for most of the roadless areas found on the district.

Threats

Racer Canyon Tuff, Pine Park Canyon, Pine Park - Rock Canyon Proposed Wilderness

Threats to the area come from a variety of sources, including unregulated off road vehicle use, livestock grazing, and speculative prospecting. The entire area has been leased for oil and gas, though none of those leases have yet been exercised.

Location

North of the community of St. George, Utah, the area is most easily accessed from the north/south highway 18 that bisects the ranger district. To the east of Highway 18, a paved road departs the highway at the community of Central leading to the community of Pine Valley. A historic pioneer settlement, the town of Pine Valley is a prime jumping-off point for exploration of the main Pine Valley laccolith.

The Bull Valley subsection of the district is best accessed from a high standard dirt road that runs between the communities of Veyo And Enterprise. The fascinating formations of the Racer Canyon Tuff can be observed from this route, and numerous primitive hiking opportunities exist here. Hiking trails accessible from this route include the Pilot Peak trail, as well as the Cove Mountain trail. The Pine Park area is also notable, and worth a visit. It is best accessed from the Enterprise area, heading east on graveled highway 120, then south on forest road 001. Before descending into Pine Park, the visitor is afforded a broad view of the Beaver Dam wash area, stretching far into Nevada. The area is truly wild and remarkable, with a palpable sense of solitude, even while standing on the main route.

Wilderness Characteristics

Geology and Landforms

Proposed Expansion, Pine Valley Mountains Wilderness

Several significant geological conditions are found within the Pine Valley Ranger district. A striking formation found in the district known as the Racer Canyon Tuff has created dramatic and fascinating white and gray-hued features. Wind and water erosion had sculpted the formation in a series of scenic hoodoos, domes and goblins. The Racer Canyon tuff feature is most prevalent in Bull Valley subsection in areas known as Pine Park, Racer Canyon, and Honeycomb Rocks. Within the Pine Valley Mountains a laccolithic intrusion called the "Iron Axis" -- an uplift caused by the intrusion of molten igneous rock between layers of sedimentary rock -- has been described in the Utah Geological Survey's publication Survey Notes as "world class", and "one of the largest in the world." Though much of the main body of the intrusion is contained within the Pine Valley Wilderness, several divisions of the formation remain unprotected. As a result of this activity, several large slide masses are also found in the area. Recent mapping by Kent State University students and geologists indicates this slide activity occurred in quick succession over a relatively brief period of time.

On the south end of the district, landforms fall away to dramatic red, orange and white sandstone outcrops and canyons, providing a striking contrast to the volcanic features of the main range.

TES species

Threatened, endangered, or sensitive species known to occur in the area are:

Plant Communities

Proposed Expansion, Pine Valley Mountains Wilderness

The area is predominantly pinon-juniper woodland intermixed with sage steppe. Communities of mountain brush and isolated stands of Ponderosa pine also occur.

Wildlife

The area is home to deer, raptors and other avian life, reptiles, and small mammals. Brown (Grizzly) Bear roamed the Pine Valley Mountains as late as 1914.

Archaeology and history

A portion of the Spanish trail passes through the ranger district, leading to interest among heritage tourists. The trail roughly follows a present day power and pipeline corridor, allowing easy vehicular access. Numerous pioneer cemeteries exist, and are well visited by history buffs. One infamous point on the Spanish Trail played host to one of Utah's most memorable historical events, the Mountain Meadows massacre. In an area in the central highlands where emigrants had their last opportunity to graze their stock before crossing the Escalante Desert, over one hundred emigrants, including women and children, were brutally murdered. The tragedy was initially blamed on Ute Indians, but it is now widely accepted that Mormon settlers in costume conducted the massacre.

Naturalness and other unique features

The Ranger District is still largely roadless, even after more than one hundred and fifty years of use. It has retained much of the wild and rugged character seen by the first European settlers. Opportunities for primitive recreation exist, particularly in the interior. Scenic peaks and canyons give visitors a palpable feeling of solitude. The area contains a Forest Service Research Natural Area, known as Browse RNA. The southern end of the district is directly adjacent to the Cottonwood BLM WSA. Large areas on the western side of the ranger district have been chained with the intent of increasing forage for domestic livestock. The areas of chaining near the Nevada border have been excluded from roadless consideration, due to their landscape-wide scale. Other areas of chaining are somewhat isolated, and with the aid of fire, have become substantially unnoticeable to the average lay visitor.

The entire region is well suited to horseback riding, hiking, backpacking, bird and wildlife watching, photography, and historical tourism.

Roadless Areas within the Pine Valley Mountains region