Markagunt Plateau

"On the north there is a pair of plateaus, twins in age, but very distinct in development, the Paunsagunt and Markagunt... The stupendous cliffs by which these plateaus are bounded are of indescribable grandeur and beauty... Some of the plateaus carry dead volcanoes on their backs that are towering mountains, and all of them are dissected by canyons that are gorges of profound depth. But every one of these plateaus has characteristics peculiar to itself and is worthy of its own chapter."

Description

Proposed Expansion of Ashdown Gorge Wilderness

An area of spectacular geologic and ecological diversity, the Markagunt Plateau stands at the headwaters of one of North America's most visually stunning landscapes -- the area bordering Cedar Breaks National Monument. The Virgin River is born here, springing forth from the cliffs on the southern end of the Plateau before threading its way through a maze of spectacular slot canyons and towering minarets of Zion National Park.

The Markagunt is a biological island of cool aspen stands, meadows, and spruce/fir forests bordered by redrock canyon country to the south and by the vast deserts of the Great Basin to the west. Rising to elevations of 10,000 to 11,000 feet and capturing moisture from the prevailing westerly winds, it harbors a surprising array of plant and animal species. From bold volcanic peaks on the northern end, cinder cones and lava fields in the central portion, to diverse coniferous forests and bold and remarkable cliffs on the southern and eastern reaches, the Markagunt offers a treasure trove of bounty for hikers, anglers, sportsmen, photographers, artists, researchers, and families. The Markagunt plateau, or Cedar Mountain, as it is referred to by locals, contains the following roadless areas: Mineral Canyon, Bear Valley Peak - Little Creek Peak, Butler Peak, Bunker Creek - Horse Valley Peak, Sidney Peaks, Ashdown Gorge Expansions, Hancock, Lava Beds, Hatch Mountain, Gooseberry Point, Pink Cliffs, and Dairy Canyon. The area contains 211,200 acres of roadless areas. When considered for wilderness protection, popular mountain bike trails eliminate the Sidney Peaks area from consideration, and the Mineral Canyon, Lava Beds, and Bear Valley Peak - Little Creek Peak areas are divided to provide access to primitive four wheel drive routes. The uniqueness, grandeur, and beauty of the Markagunt so apparent to John Wesley Powell should be protected for future generations of Americans that seek the same kind of primitive experience enjoyed by the members of the Powell expeditions.

Threats

Because parts of this region have been heavily impacted by intensive timber harvest and road building in the past, it is imperative that the remaining roadless and natural areas be protected. Unregulated road building for the purpose of timber harvest has created a serious threat to the health of the area's wildlife species. In the area most intensively logged, more than six miles of classified roads per square mile of land have resulted in have resulted in severe damage to plant communities, wildlife habitat, water quality, , and other natural processes. This situation far exceeds the Dixie National Forest's current Land and Resource Management PlanŐs upper limit of two miles of road per square mile of land. Ill-advised logging proposals, careless or illegal off-road vehicle use, poorly managed livestock grazing, and the spread of invasive weeds that accompanies such activities all threaten to further damage the vegetation, soils, and watersheds that are key to the plateau's beauty and health.

Location

Dairy Canyon Proposed Wilderness

Located east of the community of Cedar City, Utah, the Markagunt Plateau is easily accessed form Utah State highway 14 that traverses central and southern plateau. Highway 14 offers access to excellent hiking along the rim of the Pink Cliffs, where visitors are treated to views of Zion National Park. Opportunities to explore the lava beds area are also available from highway 14. Leaving south from the community of Parowan, highway 143 provides access to Brian Head, Cedar Breaks National Monument, and points south. Highway 143 provides access to the Spruce trail near Brian Head, which slices northeasterly through dramatic and diverse terrain. The plateau hosts significant private inholdings, which contain summer and vacation homes. It is popular with residents of Las Vegas, who seek the cool breezes and high elevation forests as an escape from the heat and dust of the Mojave Desert.

Wilderness Characteristics

Geology and Landforms

Lava Field, Lava Beds Proposed Wilderness

The Markagunt Plateau features natural wonders both subtle and bold. Volcanic peaks and stark lava beds interspersed among rolling plateaus bounded by colorful cliff bands; peaks rising to well over 10,000 feet, and plunging narrow canyons are all found here. Some notable features include bucolic Upper Bear Valley, framed by the dramatic scarp of Little Creek Peak, vast lava fields surrounding the symmetrical cinder cone of Hancock peak, and the broad and expansive views afforded by Gooseberry Point. Cedar Canyon, Mexican Hollow, Spring Canyon, and Limerick Canyon are just a few of the canyons that slice the plateau, adding their own exceptional features while accenting the higher country above. Numerous creeks traverse the area, enhancing both geographic and ecological diversity. The area is home to Cedar Breaks national monument. Cliffs and vistas that lie outside monument's boundaries consist of the same spectacular banded and multicolored formations that have made the monument famous, and deserve protection as well.

TES species

Threatened, endangered, or sensitive species known to occur in the area are:

Plant Communities

Vast expanses of patient pinon-juniper forests and aromatic sage are found in the lower canyon country of the areas south-central lowlands. The upper elevations are punctuated by cool stands of pine, spruce and fir, dancing aspen groves, grassy meadows, and spring-fed marshlands. Spruce bark beetle activity has created a mosaic of spruce/fir mortality in the high elevation areas. Here, a ghostlike atmosphere seems to cry out for the healing and regenerative properties of fire.

Wildlife

Sidney Peaks Roadless Area

Such geographical diversity naturally invites and hosts a wide variety of wildlife, including many species threatened, endangered, or otherwise unique in the world. Counting on the continued preservation of these roadless lands for their own survival, threatened, endangered and sensitive species endure; even thrive, in the plateau's niches. More familiar wildlife also abound on Markagunt Plateau, among them mule deer, elk, jackrabbits, squirrels, coyote, lizards and other reptiles, and an impressive array of bird and bat species.

Archeology and history

A portion of the Spanish Trail runs through the northwestern part of the district. An improved gravel road follows the old course of the trail, and serves as the southern boundary of the Mineral Canyon Roadless Area. The trail was used as a trade route between Santa Fe and Los Angeles in the mid-1800s. The famous trailblazers of the Dominguez-Escalante party established the route, which still remains in use today. Native Americans undoubtedly used the game rich forests for hunting and gathering.

Naturalness and other unique features

"Incredible diversity" best describes the Markagunt Plateau and the potential wilderness that predominates. The diversity of the area encompasses broad wildflower-filled meadows, lava fields and cinder cones, and stunningly diverse conifer forests to the south.

The Lava Beds area is home to numerous caves that harbor many species of bats that summer in the cool caverns, emerging at night to feed.

From literally hundreds of vantages, the Markagunt Plateau visitor can view and marvel at the mysterious and fascinating landscapes of Zion, Cedar Breaks, the Aquarius Plateau, Paunsagunt Plateau, the Pink Cliffs, the Tushar Range, the Tippets Valley, and various sentinel peaks.

Motor access to trailheads leading to the roadless portions of the plateau are numerous and convenient. Yet, great expanses of the area remain roadless and so retain their natural, ecologically vibrant, even primeval condition. Opportunities for solitude, exploration afoot, and discovery of the natural world abound there. With relatively level terrain and reliable water, the area is well suited to camping, day hiking, backpacking, horseback trips, rock climbing, photography, fishing, and hunting.

Permanent protection for the wilderness values of Markagunt Plateau will help to preserve its natural features for recreation, study, and an enduring sense of ecological health and wonder.

Roadless Areas within the Markagunt Plateau Wilderness